scooter is going to take a short trip over a long cliff

[PANDEMIC]

I am so fed up with this thing...it has ran great for 3-4 days straight then out of nowhere it started idling poorly and has no power upon takeoff again and now it seems like the clutch won't disengage from time to time but it stays at 1700 rpm's

[kz1000st]

What did you do to make it run great for those three days? As I recall you had the idling/no power at takeoff problem before.

[PANDEMIC]

Well you see I would say that it was the sea foam that I put in the gas tank and ran through the carb and intake but I'm going to say there's a good chance that had nothing to do with it...I say this because this morning on my way to work it was doing it all over again up until my cvt belt broke...With no belt the engine stopped sputtering and hesitating and sounded just as smooth as the day I bought it...I picked up another belt today once I get it apart I'll check out the clutch and everything

[PANDEMIC]

After giving it a lot of thought, I could very well be the reason for all this crap...This all started when I had adjusted the valves but what I didn't mention is that I had also put new back brakes on the same day (I didn't think brakes and running like crap could go hand and hand) I had asked a question as to what the torque specs were for the nut that holds the back wheel on...I'm still waiting to see if anyone knows...The only thing I could online said 75 lbs ft

[rks]

75 lbs ft is what my gy6 generic manual says. I use a drop or two of blue loctite on the axle threads, and snug the nut up with my impact. Don't hammer on it hard with an impact, just a couple of raps after things are snug.

Kind a sounds like your problem stems from your cvt. Something binding up, or broken, (I don't mean the belt) and placing a big load on your engine.

Don't run it off a cliff just yet.

[PANDEMIC]

OK well I installed the belt and again there seems to be a lot of strain on the engine...The clutch seems to be working fine...now the variant is questionable...I ran it with the case cover off and what I have thought this whole time was excess play in the valves causing a tapping noise isn't that, it's 1 or 2 roller weights making the noise...I'm trying to decide if I should fork out the money for a new variant, drive plate, roller weights and whatever else is needed or just park it for awhile and save up and just buy a new motor and trans...I saw one on here brand new for like 250 bucks and I won't have any shipping cost cause the place is about 20 minutes from my house

[PANDEMIC]

The reason I'm considering a new motor is cause when I bought this scooter brand new it came with the spark plug cross threaded as a courtesy...upon first spark plug change half the threads were on the spark plug

[Irish]

It's to late now but one thing that I have always done , when I put in new plugs , is to coat the threads with anti-seize lube. A lot of people will say that the torque will be changed but I've been doing this since 1959/60 & have never had a problem! Irish

[PANDEMIC]

I used loctite cause at best there were maybe 2 threads left on the head and I figured the loctite might help a little to keep from blowing the plug out

[PANDEMIC]

Quick question...do different manufacturers use different size stock roller weights or do stock scooters fresh out the factory all have the same size...my engine is a 157qmj if that helps any...I don't know what size to order if I just go with the repair for now

[kz1000st]

These are for the GY6 150cc. 13 or 14 grams.

http://www.partsforscooters.com/169-...ategory=132539

[PANDEMIC]

Well I guess it's safe to say that it was time to replace the roller weights...I actually just went and replaced the entire variator...pick it up online from a place here in California for 20 bucks even...only about 25 minutes from my place and they have free shipping with no minimum amount spent...it's my new favorite place..

[nightriderrv]

No wonder it would hardly move it was stuck in higher gear ratio, glad you found it