|
|
06-26-2016, 01:56 AM | #1 |
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 121
|
A little bit of coolant on the wires is NOT responsible for the lack of high beams.
Check the connectors at the high beam/flash to pass switches, and the connector under the front cowling that powers the lights. Having said that, there is also the possibility that the high beam filaments are out, but (on a Chinese scooter) my money is on the shitty factory wiring. As for the CVT, have you taken off the bell housing and examined the centrifugal clutch? Someone else may be able to shed more insight as to why the idle is all over the place. |
06-26-2016, 06:42 PM | #2 | ||
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 7
|
Quote:
Also I did check the filaments and they are fine. Quote:
Also I replaced the gasoline and the bike seemed like it was running much better. The gasoline had to have been a few months old and lost a significant amount of octane. |
||
06-27-2016, 03:39 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 738
|
I'm far from a SCOOTER mechanic but it seems as if you have a belt problem. Either in the size or the tension.
As far as the fuel goes-old or new gas will make a Hell of a difference. I have even seen a motorcycle that the owner couldn't start. He finally put in NEW gas & it started right up! Irish |
07-02-2016, 07:23 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 7
|
Alright, so I am still stumped on the headlights. ALTHOUGH, I did notice the high-beam indicator does not light up when I flip the switch. I also tried by-passing the the switch to no avail.
I checked the fuses and all other connections and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary. Any suggestions? I also have a multi-meter so if anybody can help me out with what connections to try out and what results to expect. I am able to do this. Here is the electrical diagram: http://screencloud.net/v/oc69 This is another off topic question, is the 'sense organ' on the diagram the alarm system? Because I found the alarm module disconnected. I do not care to have it installed either. |
07-03-2016, 07:08 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 121
|
Ok. IF that diagram is correct for your bike(*), then the wire of interest is the BLUE one which runs from the high/low beam switch, to the front panel and to the headlights.
Check at the connector where the blue wire enters the switch. You should be getting 12-14VDC between the BLUE wire (high beam) and GROUND when the high beams are on. This diagram indicates that ground should be a green colored wire (and IIRC it was green on my YY250T). One of the wires to the horn switch should be ground; also, if you have exposed metal on the bike's main frame, that will also be ground; or (preferred) you can probe the battery (-) terminal for ground. If you get 12-14V when the switch is on, then the problem must be a break somewhere along that blue wire (remember, connectors are the most likely culprit, followed by severed wires). If you don't, then its time to replace the switch. If you correctly bypassed the switch in your earlier tests, then it is an issue with a break in that blue wire. Since your low beams work (and they share the same ground as the high beams), ground to the headlights must be OK. It's highly unlikely that both the high beam elements, and the panel high beam indicators, are defective, so I'm gonna go with "break somewhere in the blue wire between the switch and the first device it goes to" as the most likely problem. (*) there is no way to know for sure, since the bike is typically wired by the OEM's, not CFMOTO, and they may not use the same wire colors (in fact, they may not wire it exactly the same). |
09-03-2016, 09:14 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 7
|
Shadowfire: Ok, oh boy. I spent a good few hours plugging my multi-meter with a lot of confusion, but here are things I am certain about:
- The switch works. I removed the switch from the bike and I tested the connections for any leaks. I tried all settings. Definitely no leaks and good connection. - All pins (blue, white, dark green*) and switched to either low or high beam settings to the negative battery terminal reads: .25v All the following data was recorded, with all handlebar instrumentals uninstalled, and straight from the pins: - All the colors do look to be accurate to the manual. - The positive battery terminal to the engine reads: 11.2v - The negative battery terminal to the engine reads: .03v - The dark green* pin to negative or positive battery terminal reads: 0 and no connection - The blue (or white) pin to negative battery terminal reads: .25v - The blue (or white) pin to the positive battery terminal reads: 11.2v Not sure what this means. Could the green connection be busted? Possibly need a new computer? Last edited by blackout; 09-04-2016 at 04:28 AM. |
|
|