Jmstar electrical issue

[fullpwr5516]

Hello all,I just purchased my 3rd fixer upper 150cc Gy6 scooter (its a JMSTAR also has Jonway tag Baja MC 13-150) from the tow yard I work for as abandoned property.I've been having good luck with them the this point but often don't know very much about the history of them when I get them like this.So here is my issue,some one ripped the wires out of the back of the key switch and splice them together so that it would start and run without a key well upon replacing the key switch and plugging it into the wiring harness correctly which was undamaged it seems there must be some other wiring modification somewhere then I'm not finding as when I turn the key on the scooters lights and electrical system do not come on until the scooter is actually started and running it will crank and start but its like the electrical system is solely running off of the generator so it obviously flickers when its idling low because it doesn't have the battery as a ballast so I'm wondering if anybody could point me in a direction of where to start looking where something may be disconnected or bypass because the scooters I've had in the past all the lighting and electrics come on with the key in the on position it seems the generator is obviously functioning fine as it will run and everything is stay lit with the battery disconnected when its running,I have all of the plastic off of a scooter as I really wanted to go over it before I started riding it I can't find any chopped or missing wires and everything seems to be plugged in.sorry about the long rant with no punctuation I was using voice to text

[techie610]

First off, Welcome to the site.

For the bike, Id start by taking the battery to an auto store and having them check it. If good, there should be an inline fuse off the POS side a few inches down wire.
If that's good, check all the grounding points and wire junctions. They are usually cheap crunch bands, bundled around the cluster. If you have the chance, solder those and tape them, like they should be. Next in line would to replace the Voltage Regulator. Usually on the front triple tree, behind the headlight. Make sure that ground point is good, as well.

Side note, I wouldn't use the Voice to Text. Made it pretty hard.. Just sayin'.

[inuyasha]

Hi
Welcome aboard
Pleased to meet you
The lights will not come on until the engine is running thats how a scoot is set up
They are powered by the stator not the battery its function is to supply power to the starter
Take care and ride safely
Yours Hank

[techie610]

Lights wont, correct.
But the gauges should move. at least, they do on my bikes.

[inuyasha]

Originally Posted by techie610

Lights wont, correct.
But the gauges should move. at least, they do on my bikes.

Hi
As do mine i should have specified that the gauges will come on but lights blinkers and horn are powered up when scoots engine is running in a normal setup
Take care and ride safely dear friend
Yours Hank

[techie610]

Oh, mine must not be normal cause even my horn and blinkers work. lol but as the rest of my life is nowhere near the norm, why should my bike be? lol

[Allen Walker]

I apologise for resurrecting this thread, I'm new to the forums and i have by the sounds of it almost the exact same issue as this. The original post didn't seem resolved/updated so was unsure whether to post new or tag onto this one.

I have a May 2008 MC-13-150 scooter. I bought it locally from a bloke who said he ran it new in 2008, then was almost ran over by a truck and his wife would not let him ride it. It has sat, 582 miles on the clock, since 2008, in his heated/cooled/insulated garage. Recently his wife told him she wanted it out of the garage. He tried to get it started/running, but he could only get the starter to turn over, not catch. Everything on it looks new, except for a very fine film of dust after sitting for years.

I got it home on the back of my truck. The battery (AGM) was only showing 6v on my multimeter. Turning the ignition key to "ON" brought nothing. I took the battery out, removed the inspection cap, all the cells were dry and white/furry from sulfation. I carefully poured distilled water into each cell to get it wet, left it over night, then put it on a trickle 1amp charge.

Meanwhile i took a 12 motorcycle battery from my 500cc Suzuki, connected it up, turned ignition key to "ON", again nothing, no lights, no horn, nothing. Checked the inline fuse, it is ok, voltage is getting from the battery to the starter relay/solenoid. So i bridged the solenoid with an insulated screwdriver, starter turns over. (yay)

I appear to have resurrected the original battery as it is now holding a healthy 13v and...

I drained the gas, put fresh gas in, changed the engine oil and final gear oil. kickstarted it 5 times to prime, bridged the starter relay, it starts and runs. Lights came on, but not the turn signals, horn, or hazard lights. The high/low beam switch works fine. The dash is illuminated, but the fuel gauge and ammeter do nothing . Neither do the brake lights come on, but the rear running light is on.

I have removed the front plastics but can see nothing obviously disconnected except for one two prong connector which has nothing to connect to.

This scooter has the radio/cassette player installed (it doesn't work either) and a Yun Ba alarm, with both keyfobs with buttons that indicate "lock" "unlock" "start"(it's a lightning symbol (remote start?)) and "alarm" (bell). Both keyfob remotes give a good red led illumination when i press any of the butttons, but they do nothing to the bike.

The kill engine switch works after i start the bike by bridging the starter relay/solenoid. I took both mirror/turn signals off and tested them by applying 12v and they work fine .

I should also mention i have now unplugged the cassette player and alarm thing. It still runs the same.

I am thinking that perhaps both the brake switches are shot, but that wouldn't explain the ammeter (which i would like to work), fuel gauge (which might be handy but isn't mission critical), radio( not too bother about really but might be neat), and the alarm thing (which also might be neat but not critical)

Before i start removing the body plastics, is there something else i am missing or should check?

Having typed this monolithic post i realise i can likely apply voltage to the voltmeter and fuel gauge to test them, and also connect the brake light switch wires to see if that allows the starter to function, and the horn, but i'm asking if anyone else has something i should be checking.

Thankyou in advance for the help and advice, i'm excited to be getting 100+mpg over my 60mpg Suzuki 500cc...^^

[rks]

First I would replace the stop/tail lamp bulb. I doubt that both front and rear brake light switches are bad with only 600 miles on the scoot. One of the brakes must be applied, and lamp lit, for starter switch to work on these scooters.

Turn signals, horn, fuel gauge should work with just the key turned on, as they are DC operated, not AC like the head and tail lights. Just because a fuse looks ok, doesn't mean it is.....the glass style OEM fuses on these are notorious for problems. If you still have one of them, replace it with a blade style...and I'd bet most of your problems will disappear.

[Shadowfire]

Nothing to add to rks post, except that if you still have problems after replacing the fuseholders, check the connectors. On the YY250T, the brake lamps (not the running lights) are in fact DC powered, and it wouldn't surprise me if the Roketa bikes are wired the same way, so you need to track down the DC supply problem before replacing tail lights.


Pretty much every thing you've stated isn't working, is due to DC not reaching the front instrument cluster.

[blueboy5000]

it's very likely it is possibly both break light switches, I've seen a lot of crappy brake light switches on Roketas from 2004 to 2009, and have even had both of mine fail on my 2011.

The instrument clusters on the earlier Roketas are notoriously bad too, so I would not rule that out either.

I would first check every running light socket for corrosion/damage. You'd be surprised how common running light socket damage is, and the types of havoc it reaks in the wiring harnesses.