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03-14-2017, 09:34 PM | #1 |
Okay, I'll be trying some new things once old man winter is done with his current fit. I have a new battery and new starter on the scooter. Battery has even been hooked up to a running vehicle with jumper cables and that didn't make any difference. So I will post an update once I try the following:
-disconnect current positive wire that supplies voltage to the starter (removing positive wire spanning from starter solenoid to the starter). -leave in place the ground wire spanning from the engine valve cover to the chassis since this does both provide negative for the engine(spark) and also a negative lead from the starter back to the battery. -connect separate positive and negative wires to the battery and route this circuit directly to the starter, connecting the circuit with a momentary push-button switch Hopefully this direct connection from the battery to the starter will pump enough cranking amps through to let me know I need to work on some wiring within the scooter itself, with focus on the engine ground. |
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03-21-2017, 06:49 AM | #2 |
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 493
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Sounds like a sticking starter clutch. It's common, and is an internal engine part.
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2011 Roketa MC-23-150 4T 150cc 157 qmj 24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust RED spring clutch Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!) KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt GPS verified 65mph on flats. |
03-25-2017, 09:33 PM | #3 |
Thanks, Blueboy5000. I will definitely research this engine component further and see what I need to do to make it stop sticking.
So I finally wrapped up slapping some new parts on the scooter and tinkering around with things. New since last post: -new starter solenoid -new positive and negative wires off battery - -new CDI(ended up sticking with old CDI) Result: Still the same engine behavior when attempting to crank. So I started pulling apart some of the sheathing that keeps the wiring bundled neatly. I found where the ground wires from the various components merge to one wire and capped it so the copper wiring was not exposed. Also finally installed the wires that came with the ignition coil I had in. Ran that green side directly back to the negative battery terminal by itself. Still no spark when running starter and holding spark plug gap to engine casing. So I inspected the black-with-red wire from CDI to the hot side of the ignition coil and found no shorts. I replaced new CDI with the old one and it produced spark immediately upon retrying. Successful ending: Upon observing a dependable spark, I immediately reassembled the parts and compartments I had open and placed the CDI and starter solenoid back on their mounts. For good measure I added some ether to the intake and hit the starter button. It started making its usual racket and not smoothly turning but I let it try for about 7 seconds before BOOM! The ether (starting fluid) had finally ignited. So I sprayed some more in through a straw via one of the vacuum ports on the intake and tried cranking again. This continued for about 2 minutes before I finally achieved a started, running scooter. Summary: I feel the issue of failure to start/crank that I reported was a result of a lack of rich intake air and a fault in the wiring of the scooter. Whether it was the ground only or the hot side coming off the CDI box I can't really tell. What happens next: I really don't like the racket it makes that sounds like grinding gears when the starter is attempting to turn the engine over. So I will be looking further into this sticking starter clutch that blueboy5000 spoke of. I'll be keeping an eye on the oil since it makes sense that a properly oiled engine will be easier to turn (over). I did get to ride it a little bit today before I let it stall seeing if it would idle. Trying to restart it independently (no jumper cables/battery booster) seems like a lost cause as the battery dies before I get it running. So if I stall at a light I'm effectively stuck there to push my ride to the curb and begin CPR, so to speak. Sorry I wrote enough to be an autobiography here. However, I did intend to include as much detail(or storytelling, depending on how you look at it) to try to help a reader who might need it. Blueboy5000, would you mind elaborating a bit on how the sticking clutch would cause my reported problem? |
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03-27-2017, 07:18 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 493
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The starter clutch is an internal driven bendix-style gear/clutch. Kind of like a combination of a flywheel and a bicycle freewheel.
__________________
2011 Roketa MC-23-150 4T 150cc 157 qmj 24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust RED spring clutch Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!) KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt GPS verified 65mph on flats. |
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gy6 wont start 150cc vip |
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