[DisillusionedPrepper]

Thanks for the input Bandito. That's the sole reason I post on forums... to gain perspective, and new ways of looking at a single issue.

The darkside front is up in the air at the moment. My hope of finding a supplier in the US is dwindling. The Cali distributer I was in contact with has found the same stone wall at the manufacturer end of the supply chain. They WILL NOT release a UK spec'ed tire in the US at all.

What I do have is a 130/90-10 Kenda dual sport that is the same (19") installed height as the OEM 130/70 13 tire on the bike now.
I have a 10" rim for that tire/GY6 case, and I have a rather cool looking 12" front wheel from some unknown scoot that has a low profile tire (unknown size ATM) that will be about another inch or so lower in the front.
I'll have to mount them all up, and trial fit them on the bike to see how it all looks.

In any event they will be temporary as I really do have my mind set on the darkside rear. The front I may stay with the 12" wheel, and a low profile...

The distance I lowered the front (raised the shocks in the trees) is really a non issue as far as bottoming out.
You can (I can) clearly see where the real world travel ended on the fork tubes. I went 1/4" above that point. Fact is I will be installing new forks after this mock up. At that time I will be modifying the new ones with spring preload-ers, and heavier weight fork oil. The idea is to stiffen, and slow the dampening. The real concern is hitting the frame or kickstand more than collapsing the fork. Stiffer springs, and slower reaction time will cure that.
For the rear it will be nitrogen shocks that I can adjust the charge/spring preload to compensate for my 200 lb self...

The BBK's, and associated tuning gear is my realm. That's where I really shine.
They don't really increase HP to any degree. What they add is torque. Torque is what pushes you against that wind to increase speed. The main issue with all of those kits, and associated bits is the blueprinting or lack thereof. Mass produced parts can be assembled from different (or the same vendor), and fit like an F1 engine or a can of BB's.
I generally have at least three pistons, five or six sets of rings, and several (2-3) cylinder/head kits on hand. I'll go thru them all to find the best fitting parts, and fine tune them all from there. Things like polishing combustion chambers/piston domes to laping the valves. Compare all the valve springs (on a drill press/digital scale) to find matching pairs. Weigh the valve retainers/rocker arms to match them up. Relieve all the sharp edges left after machining to prevent hot spots or places where stress can create fractures...
I can assemble one of these china engines in around an hour. BUT I can't say that it will run for an hour. Maybe a year or maybe 5 minutes.
If I take a day or two to blueprint that same engine I can guarantee it will run strong for a year with little to no maintenance. Sooo what I try to do is build a solid engine, and never really care what It goes in.

This build will be a little different for me because this will be one of my last scoot builds for quite awhile. I plan to commit to my Triumph build after this scoot. I'm getting a little too old for all this custom scoot stuff. You can put several thousand dollars into a scoot, and then have no market for it. Who would really pay 5k plus for a 90MPH 50cc bike? Who on earth could ever keep a bike like that running??
Well there is me but I'm the only one I know...

On the flip side I could build a one of Triumph bobber for around 12-15k, and easily turn it around for 25-30 with a few shows under it's belt.

Just saying that scoots are a TON of fun, and a great pass-time but the limited use nature, and lousy reputation they have in the US market is catching up with the positives.
Here's the last real scoot project I built. 5k, and I can't count the hours... It started as a 2005 Kymco ZX50, and became a real 85-90MPH race bike. The only parts that I did not modify are the wheels. Not one other piece was spared the sword.