Full Throttle Dillemmmma
 

Blah, blah, blah, I can use all of my poor descriptive skills to tell you guys what's going on, but my best bet is to show you this short video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=op_d5...ature=youtu.be

Any ideas? Or is this just normal?

Hi Garit
No thats not normal, scroll down to trouble shooting at this site for possible causes and fixes
http://scooter.wikia.com/wiki/Tuning_a_carburetor
Take care and ride safely dear friend
Yours Hank

Thanks, Hank. One problem...

I seem to have a copper/brass looking plug where it says my A/F screw should be. Can this be removed?

EDIT: A bit blurry, but here it is!
http://i49.tinypic.com/1oa1.jpg

you can take a drill bit and remove the plate there may not be an adjuster underneath if there is great, but usually there isn't you may have to get a new carb.

Thanks for the info, but... That sucks, SO much.

you probably need to upjet takes more fuel in the winter for your scoot run correctly, if the a/f screw is blocked most likely there's no screws in float bowl either, hate be the bearer of bad news

Still, I highly appreciate the valuable information. Thanks, Millsc.

sell your carb on craigslist for 10 bucks or so and get a new one for 24 bucks off ebay, i actually got 20 for my original carb and paid 4 bucks for a new adjustable one after sale

Carb needs a rejet, if you're going full throttle and losing power the high speed jet is too lean. Happens a lot with factory lean EPA tuning. This is not a problem that can be solved by turning the idle mixture screw as that mostly affects idles up to 1/8 throttle.

Another possible cause is one of the intake restrictors was removed. Either the four hole or the internal snorkel could be missing. To see if it needs a rejet you can try the duct tape method. Cover 1/4 of the air intake hole with some duct tape then try revving again, if it gets a little better try covering another 1/4 to 1/8. What this does is restrict the air intake so that it'll balance out with the limited fuel the carb is supplying.

If the above procedure works then you have no choice but to rejet the carb. If the carb is a sealed unit you need to buy a new carb.

Thanks, Quertydude. I'll be trying and checking this first thing tomorrow and I'll be back here to post my results.

As this is my only vehicle, would it be harmful to continue driving it with this problem until I get a new carb?

Yes, it is bogging to much air not enough fuel at wide open throttle. For now cover some of the Air Filter to restrict some of the air coming in that will help Until you either get a new carb or drill out the plugged Fuel Ratio screw and get at the screw. Now the question is, will there be a screw there and will it HAVE a slot for a screwdriver.

On some late models the screw they put in DOES NOT have a slot but it is a screw. If you can use a reverse drill bit small one 1/16 and unscrew it with a drill in reverse. Then you can may a slit on top of the screw so you can use a screwdriver on it.
Lefty

get you a new adjustable carb and a 82 jet it may be slightly rich in the summer but would be good for all seasons if you kept it stock

or get a new carb and jets 75- 85 and plug chop, but you don't seem like the type to want to do alot of hassle and carb jet changes as why i suggest the 82 better to be rich than lean

If it was running fine before the temperature dropped on him the jets are fine all he needs is to richen it up with the Fuel Ratio Mixture. Trust me I do this every winter to my ride I have to richen it up, and when it gets hot I have to Lean it out. Now if it was an EFI it would adjust the mixture automatically. But they are simple carbs and we have to manually change the mixture when extreme weather conditions occur.
Lefty

Here's today's update:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWcwD...ature=youtu.be

Thanks for the advice everyone! I'll be getting a new carb and the jets you reccomend soon, but until then my problem seems to be temporarily ghetto-rectified.