New Jonway 250 stupid "Whats this?" questions

[Technorick]

I did complete PDI accept the gear oil change.

1. It appears the YY250T-2 (aka MC13) requires the clutch cover to be removed to refill? or is that clear capped hose that appears to lead to the gear res the refill? otherwise I guess im supposed to drain and refill from that same "inside closest to the black cover" bolt?

2. What's the flat light grey aluminum block attached to the exhaust? it connects to a hose that leads to an air can that does not have a hose on the other end... I ask because My bike shipped without a fuel line connected to the carb... Is that round black air can supposed to have nothing on the other end?

3. what's the spring surrounded hose that comes from the bottom of the carb bowl and is mounted to the water pump housing? A Bowl drain to remove fuel in off season? I removed the screw and lock tightened.

Other pics: examples of the bitched up fan screen from the factory, and the jizzed up oil screen from the factory including paper wrapper residue. Jees I'm glad I'm going over the bike!

http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/Technorick/library/

[Shadowfire]

1. You will need to remove the CVT cover to do the tranny change. There are two bolts in the rear, the lower one is for draining, the upper one is for filling.
2. This is part of the CA emissions system. In CA(California) compliant bikes there is a valve which shuts this intake off when you are decelerating. This bike is not CA emissions compliant. It is a 1-way (air intake) hose, so don't worry about exhaust gasses coming out underneath your feet. Be more concerned with the exhaust gaskets, make sure you don't see any exhaust leaking from the connecting pipes when you first fire it up.
3. Its a carburetor drain hose. Open up the screw and it lets out all the fuel in the carburetor float bowl.

Its kind of interesting, my 2014 YY20 doesn't even have a fan screen.

[Technorick]

Thanks shadowfire.

Any idea what the clear caped hose is for?

I also find it odd that there is a screen over the fan. In such a tight spot. And that the fan is mounted behind the rediator. So when driving when the fan kicks on it blows air forward against the on coming air fiow from the front ? Seems stupid to me.

[Shadowfire]

The capped hose is a drain for the crank case ventilation. It is attached to a small chamber with 3 ports: drain hose, vacuum intake (from the air intake prior to the carb), and crank case ventilation. During the intake stroke, the vacuum from the air intake draws air from inside the crank case. Any oil that happens to come out with the air, falls to the bottom of the chamber and collects in the drain hose. Its important to leave the hose capped, otherwise your oil will foul up quicker (since you won't have a vacuum to draw in the air from the engine). You should check the drain hose periodically to see if there's any oil in it.

On my bike the fan definitely draws air from the front of the bike, through the radiator, through the fan, and out the back. Are you sure its spinning in that direction? I really can't tell by your pictures where the radiator even is on the bike.

[Technorick]

Thanks for the lesson on crank case ventilation. The air chamber from front to back is Radiator faces forward, Fan behind the radiator betwen the engine and radiator. The rear mounted fan blows forward pushing air thru the radiator forward. So if the fan comes on at a stop sign no problem. But it it comes on at 30 mpg the fan will be working against forward forced air flow. I would have expected they should have mounted it I the front to blow back? Perhaps they mount the fan in back to maximize air from the front plastic vents. I suppose I could leave it behind the radiator and simply reverse the wires to make it pull air from the radiator to the rear.

The importer (Great Sports) sent me a whole new fan with screen because of the bitched up screen. I could mount it in front or the radiator and I could super cool. But I'd probly draw too much current and drain the battery.

I've added a mini battery tender, mini digital volt meter to the cluster area
And have a digital water temp gauge I'd like to install today. Thes should help me monitor what's going on. I'll have to find the crankcase temp sender to see if I can connect the wires from that without having to splice a hose and install another temp sensor.

It is 7 degrees F here in Boston and only about 25f in my garage. So it will be a while until I'm able to accurately check for overheating.

[Technorick]

Forgot to mention photos in the photobucket link
http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/Technorick/library/

[Shadowfire]

Today I ran the engine a 2nd time to cure the muffler pipe paint. Replaced some of the bullet plugs in the wiring, and siliconed up a bunch of connectors, and installed the USB power port/volt meter.

But the temperatures drove me back inside after about 5 hours. Tomorrow should be warmer.

[scooter]

Interesting about the fan. I just wrote a lengthy post about my same bike an hour ago. I'll have to check my fan. I definitely want my fan pulling, not pushing. When you ran it in the garage did your rear caliper get warm and lock up the rear break? I had to adjust mine at the lever so the bypass hole would open....

[Technorick]

Scooter. No caliper problems. I've ridden it. Other than the fan screen and fan widening being backwards, I had a burnt ground wire and fuel hose disconnected. The only other factory shipping issues I found were loose hoses disconnected speedo cable and the mirror wires on the left were accede fly crimped under a factory installed handlebar bracket that connected to the steel shipping frame. Oh. And a broken plastic lock clip on the luggage box.
Rick

[scooter]

I had the burnt ground too. Was it the big one on the right side while sitting on the bike? It was touching exhaust. I relaxed it and rerouted when I changed all the hoses.