I've got a question part 2

[PANDEMIC]

On the flywheel there is an F and a T what do they stand for and which one is TDC.. After the T on mine there is a little like cross section like on an oil dipstick.. What is that area for? And last question is when looking at the valves the top valve is the intake valve correct

[kz1000st]

T is TDC. F is when the spark plug fires hich is several degrees before Top Dead Center. To set the valve timing you want the timing lined up at T. Trust me, I made that mistake.

[PANDEMIC]

OK that puts the camshaft timing marks off by about a 1/4 inch does that sound about right

[PANDEMIC]

OK I'm gonna do the adjustment tomorrow with the hopes of finding out the answer to the second question listed earlier that should give me a clear path at which to with any luck get this thing done right once and for all

[PANDEMIC]

Sorry so many questions and your probably thinking it would probably be easier if I just took it to a mechanic... Well it probably would but I like doing it myself plus there is only 1 Chinese scooter mechanic around here and it's not really that close and getting home would be a task in it self

[kz1000st]

I assume you mean the valve clearances. Doing the valve adjustment is either easy or difficult depending on your skill level and tool acquisition. Going slow and being patient is key.

[PANDEMIC]

OK here goes nothing...wish me luck...quick question though I'm curious since what the id tag says should be the valve gap and what you say it should be could you tell me what the spark plug gap should be cause if the id tag is wrong about the valve gap it could be wrong about what it says the spark plug gap should be

[PANDEMIC]

I just want to get this scoot running the best that it can

[kz1000st]

Spark plug gap should be about .028 inch. If we're going to drag millimeters into this it's 0.7112 mm.

[PANDEMIC]

I'd have to go look to make sure but I think it says something like .25 but I'm not sure nor am I sure if it says mm or inch but on the bright side valves are adjusted I think I may have to adjust the throttle some but it's cold so I'm not sure yet seems to run good I don't hear any tapping

[PANDEMIC]

OK one more question...The nut that holds the back wheel on...do you know what the torque specs are for that nut...I could only find one thing online about it and it said 75 lbs per foot...

[PANDEMIC]

OK I no longer believe a damn thing this or the manual says...so could you tell me what is a good or is the correct idle speed

[kz1000st]

1700 rpm is good. Most of the information is debatable but nothing looney. The valve gap is tight but it's better than zero clearance. The plug gap is defined as .016 to .024 inch. Again, a little snug but not destructive. It says at the top it's EPA and California certified so maybe the specs are tighter because of that. California emissions are a bear to pass and maybe everything has to be on the low side to get through.

[PANDEMIC]

Never thought about the California issue being a possibility... ok well I still have to adjust the throttle it idles a little high now that the valves are gaped at .004 and .005...but I'm still left with the same problem it seems to run fine at higher rpmin. But at idle it sputters and doesn't want to go when I first take off...guess I'll start where the fuel starts(the tank) and check the fuel and vacuum lines and fuel filter down to the ever so fun carburetor.....grrrr....This scooter is running a close race with the soon to be ex as to which one is gonna kill me first...lol

[kz1000st]

I wouldn't keep beating up on the carburetor. It sounds like a cracked intake manifold or leaking vacuum line. The hesitation is the lack of vacuum struggling to lift the throttle slide in the diaphragm carburetor. You see my mileages? I never once open or played with my carbs on anything. Most fuel flow issues are because of surrounding support systems.

[PANDEMIC]

I don't beat up on the carb...I have taken it apart cause something was keeping the plunger on the float from sealing and it kept pouring fuel out the overflow but that was awhile ago...I don't think it is a cracked intake manifold cause it acted up a couple of times then ran great for a day then ran bad for a day and now it runs bad but there are a few times during the last couple rides that it did fine at one light but not the next

[PANDEMIC]

I believe all the vacuum lines coming off the carb have been changed but I'm not positive

[kz1000st]

I don't mean you specifically about the carb beating. I hear it way too much. If it runs good one day and bad the next you might try a heavy dose of Seafoam and a one hour ride. You'd be surprised how many problems disappear after a good run. It cleans out crud all over the scooter.

[PANDEMIC]

OK is there any downfall to running headlight bulbs that are 12v 45/45w or 12v 60/60w bulbs when the scooter came with 12v 25/25? I've already put 12v 35/35w in and they just don't seem bright enough but I told myself I would deal with them till one blew well one blew today