300 mile service on Roketa 54B

[ellis4pa]

OK, I'm back with more questions.
I decided to start a new thread because my old one isn't getting attention.
So, I got my 54B a few weeks ago, did the pdi. Now I'm at the 300 mile service interval, I changed oils, and put a new spark plug in. I used a NGK Iridium one.
Now before this the scooter ran good, but as I got closer to 300 miles I started to notice a few things, a hard start here and there, dogging a bit when warm, and a speedo that shot up over 100mph. LOL, I have pulled the speed cable and reinstalled it, its better but I don't think its correct. As for the others I figured I needed to adjust the air/fuel ratio, and here's my questions, I can't find the air/fuel adjustment screw! Can anyone take a picture of there's so I know what I'm looking for?
Also, I think I'm running rich (if I'm correct) I'm going to try and post some pics of the old plug here so you guys can see.
Anyway, my biggest issue is the air/fuel adjustment that I can't find, I have the 244cc engine with the vertical cylinder. If I'm right that's the CFMoto clone?
Any help you guys can give me would be great, thanks.

[ellis4pa]

OK, I found the air/fuel screw in a few pictures, thank god it's on the bottom and easily accessible.
But really, can anybody who's done this tell me how you got anything in there that fit underneath the carb?

[ellis4pa]

Ok, so for anyone still looking here is what I found out about a carb that i didn't know before. The air/fuel screw is only an adjustment for the scooter at idle, if you need to make it more rich or lean at part throttle its done by adjusting the needle inside the carb. If you need to adjust it at full throttle its done by changing the jets.
For a scooter the jets are probably just fine unless you mod it pretty hard, and as long as the scooter starts easily and runs at idle nice there's no need to get to that screw, but if your plug is showing a rich/lean condition it can be remedied by adjusting the needle. Unless your full throttle all the time or idle excessively.

[4getful2]

As far as i can tell by your plug and my old eyes:), it looks to be just a skosh lean.
It looks like the electrode has gotten hot, unless it's my view of the picture.
They've got those things set so lean for emissions and fuel economy, it's no wonder they run hot(predetonation)
If the fuel screw isn't out to 1 1/2-1 3/4 turns out ,you should try it and see how it starts with the engine warmed up. The fuel screw works from idle 'til about 2000 rpm, after that the needle starts to move up, then from 3/4 throttle to full throttle is when the main jet works.
If you're wanting to get into the jetting thing, go for the quickest and max speed(main jet selection)first, then go for the drivability-needle adjust and fuel mix adjustment.You'll kill 2 or three hours doing this but be glad you did after it's done.
Check the valve adjustment before you do this as since you have a low mileage unit, it may have never been checked.

[ellis4pa]

Hey 4getful3, thanks for the response. As you can tell carburetors are new to me, so your input is really appreciated. Have you changed the jets on yours? I would like to change mine but I'm not sure where to start or what size jet to get, or even how to make sure I get the right jet for my carb. I plan on putting an intake, exhaust, new coil and CDI, along with a new CVT setup. So from what I can tell I'll need to change the jets along the way.

[cheapeto]

Honda makes their scooters to start up anywhere on Earth.
It's up to each of us to fine tune them to where you live and ride at.
I drilled out the slide vacume port, rejetted, swapped out my rollers with lower weighted sliders, the PO added a Polini variator, I added a YSS shock, drilled out the third baffle in the muffler, added a K&N filter.
I also added wire mesh headlight covers, the PO added a larger rear rack designed for the BR.
Removed the hated locking gas cap/
I'll be putting on a set of Michlin City Grips in a few days.
I'm seeking more power with my upgrades, but good mileage is cool too.
I'm going to do 2 long rides this year, one down to Hickory NC, Carolina CON, and out to Manisfield Ohio.

Have a blast man.

[ellis4pa]

Hey cheapeto, do you have any pics of your mods? And some questions for you too.
First, do you have the same scoot as I do?
What does drilling out the side vacuum port do?
Can you tell me there K&N part number you used? Did you keep the factory air box or put the filter right off the carb?
When you drilled out the muffler, did it get much louder?

[cheapeto]

Hey ellis4pa,
I ride a Honda 2006 Big Ruckus, PS250 all the mods I did I found at totalruckus/BigRuckus section, under preformance upgrades.
I simply did what others before me had done to theirs, as it was a lead sled before the mods.
The few mods I read about alternating the air box did not seem it would give me anything but headaches.
Their is a delicate balance between the Keihin carb, and the airbox, and myself I dont know enough about either to remove the box myself.
BRed over there, posted up a beautiful diagram of how a Keihin carb works, so I decided not to attack the airbox in anyway.
My understanding to drilling out the port is to simply allow amore air into the carb itself, it was not much, I think it was 3/32's and I went to 1/8th hole size.
The muffler mod came about as someone donated their muffler to a great rider mechanic, jimT,who carefully completely disassembled it cutting off the welds and what not, so we could see in there.
About 17 inches down in ours, you can poke a hole, up to 3/4", most use 5/8's BUT only go through once as if you go past the third baffle in there, you drilled a bigass hole in the outside of your muffler.
The tone went up, but it's not loud, nor do I buy in to the loud pipes save lives bit either. I love my quiet machine.
He then documented everything and posted exactly where you drill and how big of a hole.
But that was for our scoots, and I dont know if they would work on all mufflers.
Once upon a time, this site had MILES of technical information, but it seems much was lost in the changing of the guards so to speak.
The K&N site may have a search tool to see if they got a filter for your machine, I'd bet they do.
There are also miles of charts BRed did with his running different roller weights and and mods, it's a damn treasure trove of great information. I used his charts to figure out my roller configuration.
Have a blast with your wheels man!!

[ellis4pa]

Thanks cheapeto, I agree with you, I like my scoot quiet.

[ellis4pa]

Does anyone know where I can get a good belt? I'm having a little trouble finding the right size, its a 918 22.5.

[cheapeto]

Google powerlink 918 22.5
I cant remember where I got my belt for the chinadoll. So just c&ped your numbers into google, and this link popped up.
Seems to be a bunch of choices. I'll say this, I dont promote anyones belt, but in the web printing press business, I saw Gates belts way way more than any others for power transmission applications.

maybe this https://www.google.com/#q=powerlink+918+22.5&tbm=shop

[ellis4pa]

Thanks again! I can't believe I didn't think of that, I got wrapped up looking for scooter parts stores I never actually put the part I needed in.

[cheapeto]

Well I cant help much with mechanical questions, so if I can see a place to offer something, I try to do that.

[kz1000st]

The 54B has the Linhai 257 engine in it. Sometime soon you'll have to do a valve clearance adjustment. The mileage varies from scoot to scoot but by 1,000 miles it has to be done for sure. Stalling and hard starting are the first clues.

[ellis4pa]

Hi kz1000st,
Actually mine came with the 244cc CFMOTO engine. But yeah I've already played with the valves, luckily I don't need to do tear anything down to do it. I screwed it up the first time, now its back but I don't think there 100% right yet.