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View Full Version : Crankcase vent causing stalling?


robknc
07-19-2013, 11:55 PM
Hi Everyone,

So it's been quite a while since I've had a scooter. Used to run myvento.net back in the day, but haven't owned a scooter since 2006. I ran across a deal on Craigslist this week and couldn't pass it up -- a 2008 JCL 50cc (139qmb) with a busted tail light, one plastic panel that needed to be replaced, and a very obvious fuel delivery problem. It has 600 miles on it, and I grabbed it for $240. It looks like the TaoTaos and other chinese scoots that I seem to see everywhere these days. The only downside is that I think my Harley may be jealous ;)

I got it home and started working on the mechanical issue first (not running). I removed and cleaned the carb (it was spotless inside, but I blew it out thoroughly with carb cleaner for good measure and verified jets were clear). Still wasn't running - didn't appear to be getting gas. Fuel filter was fine. I bypassed all of the emissions crap that was connected to the intake manifold (and vaccum line for fuel valve) with no changes, then I bypassed the fuel valve completely. Started right up. Fuel valve appeared to work, but you would have to put pretty heavy suction on it to get it to work.

Picked up a new fuel valve for $9.50 locally and grabbed a replacement tail light for $25 (local eBay distributor sells locally out of his warehouse). Have plastics and a battery on order (kickstart works).

Installed fuel valve, tail light, and then went on to maintenance related items... Replaced fuel filter, installed quality fuel lines, changed gear oil, and motor oil (synthetics all around), cleaned air filter element.

Re-installed the seat this evening and took it for a little ride around my neighborhood. It drove fine, less power than the two strokes I had back in the day (but I expected as much). The only problem I encountered was that when I came to a stopsign, it would just about stall out unless I hit the throttle a bit.

So I figured idle fuel/air mix or idle screw issue.. Adjusted idle fuel/air mix first, then turned up idle to where the wheel was barely spinning, and then backed it down a half turn or so. I let it warm up on the stand then hit the throttle and let it rev up pretty good, then hit the rear brake and held it. Same symptoms -- would immediately bog down and die unless I hit the throttle.

Searched around and determined the next step was to check valve clearances. Intake was set at .005, exhaust was at .005. I adjusted the intake to .004 and left the exhaust alone. Didn't make a lot of difference running wise, still sounds a little like a sewing machine :) Re-tested, same deal.

Disconnected all emissions stuff on the intake side (maybe a vacuum leak?), re-tested, same deal.

So I pulled apart the airbox, pulled out the filter element, and started it up. Left one screw in so I could split the box apart while running. Did this (no filter element, half of airbox off), revved it up, issue gone. Re-attached the half of the airbox with the crankcase vent going into it, died immediately.

Restarted it, revved it up with the airbox split, and it looks like the crankcase vent is dumping off some gasses after revving (going out of the intake holes on that side of the airbox). I left the airbox split and put the intake end (where crankcase gasses were coming out) inside of the other half that was attached to the carb -- instant bog down. Take it away, idles normally.

Symptoms:
After high revving, gasses that are coming off of the crankcase breather hose and into the intake seem to be creating a rich condition which causes the scooter to stall. The scooter idles normally during and after warm up, and seems to drive normally.

Any idea what could be causing this? I know I could just run the crankcase breather hose elsewhere (catch can routed to dipstick with a pcv, or route a hose from the valve cover to the back of the scoot), but I would rather leave the emissions stuff intact. I also don't want to hide the symptoms if there is a real issue that is causing this that I could address...

I'm kind of missing my two strokes, lol.. no emmissions stuff and no valves or cam - simpler times :)


Thanks,
Rob

blueboy5000
07-20-2013, 08:01 AM
That would be bad rings.

blueboy5000
07-20-2013, 08:03 AM
The vent hose should vent to atmosphere or to a can, NOT to the intake, ever, regardless of if this was the stock configuration. But excessive oil-fume is 99% likely to be bad sealing rings.

jct842
07-20-2013, 12:05 PM
sound like rings to me too. Do a compression test. 150 lbs is good less than 100 and it will be hard starting and run like crap. also close up the valve gap to 003 and 004, that will make some difference on them small motors.

robknc
07-23-2013, 05:35 PM
I would be very surprised to see ring issues only 600 miles in (possible, but low probability). Upon closer inspection it looks like the needle in carb is nicked up in a few spots. Pulled the plug (NGK from the factory on this scooter), it was dry but completely black with carbon buildup - so it appears to be running crazy rich.

Because it was $26 shipped, I just bought a new carb (with electronic choke) for it and will try that first. I'm going to also install a manual fuel switch and will eliminate the vacuum fuel valve (which appears to already be failing, as I have gas coming down the vacuum line to the manifold).

If a new carb doesn't solve it, I'll look at re-ringing it or replacing the topend next. Will post an update later this week :)


Thanks,
Rob

Firehawk989
07-23-2013, 06:06 PM
Sounds like the petcock to me. You shouldn't have gas coming down your vacuum line, and sounds to me like that might cause the rich condition too. New carb couldn't hurt either though.

robknc
08-08-2013, 04:14 PM
The petcock was replaced about a week ago, but the replacement failed. Decided to just put a manual fuel valve on instead. Installed manual fuel valve and a new carb. Same issues.. Adjusted valves again (valve gap one increment less on intake+exhause), same deal..

So the piston ring suggestion was dead on. I ordered a piston kit and a set of gaskets over the weekend, so I pulled it apart this evening. I removed the piston, and found that the top compression ring had a very small piece snapped off:
http://i42.tinypic.com/wh1mbd.jpg

Luckily that piece was still in the ring groove and not in the bottom end...

The piston also appears to have a small crack between the two compression rings:
http://i44.tinypic.com/106zdpc.jpg

Crack is on the right edge of the carbon line in the pic above.

I'm really surprised to see that the ring is cracked. After researching a bit it seems that ring gap is frequently off when these come from the factory, so I'm figuring that the ring gap was just too small and it ended up cracking off.

The good news is that the jug looks good. No scoring, no scratches, and cross-hatching is still present. Next week I should have the gasket set in from China. I'll install the piston, new gaskets, and throw it back together. Then I just need to drain the synthetic oil and do the hard break-in ;)

Thanks for the help on this!


Rob